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Welcome to the 2022 version of Quill & Pad’s early Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève predictions by which the crew picks favorites and explains why.
The panelists are:
Elizabeth Doerr (ED), co-founder and editor-in-chief
Ian Skellern (IS), co-founder and technical director
Joshua Munchow (JM), resident nerd author
GaryG (GG), resident collector
Martin Inexperienced (MG), resident gentleman
The Jewelry class consists of watches demonstrating distinctive mastery of the artwork of bijou and gem setting. The watches are additionally distinguished by the selection of stones.
2022 GPHG 2022 Jewelry class shortlist
JM: We lastly arrive on the Jewelry class, which is commonly probably the most assorted in opinion as there may be such large room for style. Seen among the many competing watches are a pair acquainted faces, a number of daring decisions, and even a wild card which may have gotten misplaced whereas carrying a pouch stuffed with diamonds via a particle accelerator. There might not be a watch for each style however there are six very completely different watches that ought to elicit some fascinating dialogue amongst our group and the GPHG jury.
MG: Given my previous as a pupil of the Gemological Institute of America, I’ve to confess that that is certainly one of my favourite classes. This isn’t about making a watch and including gems to boost the value however elevating the timepiece to an object of artwork. It takes fairly a number of extra consultants even to begin fascinated by making a watch set with gems as they not solely have to be mined, but in addition minimize and set. 5 of those certainly symbolize the perfect of the perfect, whereas I’ve a distinct opinion on the TAG Heuer, which is a wholly completely different animal.
ED: You actually must deal with these watches to have the ability to totally admire and type an opinion on them. I discover it totally too tough to guage these watches from photographs, and I’ve solely dealt with two of them throughout this yr’s watch travels and seen one different via a window. I’ll do my finest!
IS: Judging jewellery watches with out dealing with them is like being blindfolded, spun round, then advised to play darts. However there are actually some lovely items right here and plenty of coloration. I’m guided by the class guidelines stating, “mastery of the artwork of bijou and gem-setting and distinguished by the selection of stones.”
GG: If there’s one class by which dealing with the watches is vital to creating an knowledgeable judgment, it’s Jewelry! Sadly, I don’t have that benefit, however will do my finest based mostly on the photographs and descriptions we now have and my ordinary core criterion of coherence.
Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Haute Joaillerie
ED: The Bulgari Serpenti is a perennial entrant, however with good cause! It’s lovely, iconic, and unbelievably properly crafted. And this one has an important new mechanical motion that’s tiny and ideal for the pinnacle of this dazzling snake.
Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Excessive Jewelry
JM: This watch is to the Jewelry class what the Tudor Black Bay is to, properly, quite a lot of classes (the Black Bay was entered in three classes simply final yr!). Type of. Since 2016, each GPHG version has seen a Bulgari Serpenti mannequin on this class, and yearly aside from 2016 it was a finalist (in that lacking yr the watch was not the extra lifelike type we see right this moment). In 2019 it even gained the class with the Serpenti Misteriosi Romani, and I keep in mind that just about yearly our panel speaks very extremely of the extremely spectacular design and execution of a Bulgari Serpenti. It’s exhausting to argue that any Serpenti is just not the most effective items annually.
This yr with some beautiful, engraved sections surrounding lovely turquoise and diamonds set in an artwork deco model, the Serpenti Misteriosi Excessive Jewelry is as soon as once more a spotlight of the class for me. The craftsmanship mixed with the restrained stone setting makes it exhausting to beat, and the power to take away the tiny mechanical motion capsule from the serpent’s head for setting and servicing is oddly satisfying to see. The one cause I’m not selecting this to win is identical cause I gained’t select the Black Bay: it’s type of the GOAT of the Jewelry class. Whereas it has solely gained as soon as, it at all times seems as one of many strongest opponents, and after a whilst you actually simply wish to give it a lifetime achievement award and retire it as the most effective fashionable jewellery watch collections, simply to provide others an opportunity.
Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Excessive Jewelry on the wrist
MG: That is the perfect Serpenti ever! There, I stated it. I’ve at all times liked this assortment by Bulgari, however the design of this one combining brilliant-cut diamonds with turquoise inserts makes it look higher than ever earlier than. As soon as once more, the animal seems to be like it may well come to life at any second, and regardless of its treasured nature it appears like one thing that may be worn – and must be worn – each day. This Serpenti is my winner on this class.
ED: And certainly mine, Martin.
GG: I’m tempted to declare a three-way tie for the win, however since I can’t do this, I’ll at the least suggest a two-way tie for second between the Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Excessive Jewelry and the Piaget Extravagant Contact. Bulgari will get full factors for utilizing a manually wound mechanical motion, and this newest interpretation of the serpent theme makes use of turquoise inserts to good benefit to carry a little bit of the Southwest to the occasion.
IS: Having dealt with fairly a number of Bulgari Serpentis and at all times being blown away by their unimaginable high quality and seductive tactility, I believed the Serpenti Misteriosi Excessive Jewelry could be a shoo-in to win this class. But it surely’s been pipped on the publish by one other and is my decide for runner up.
Additional studying:
Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Excessive Jewelry: A Treasured Snake That Cleopatra Would Have Liked
Bulgari’s Beloved Serpenti: A Transient Historical past
Fast Info Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Haute Joaillerie
Case: 40 x 8.85 mm, pink gold
Gem-setting: turquoise inserts, brilliant-cut diamonds, two pear-cut rubellites as eyes, pavé diamond setting contained in the mouth, together with the dial of the watch (18.05 ct whole)
Motion: guide winding Caliber BVL 100 Piccolissimo, 3 Hz/21,600 vph, 30-hour energy reserve
Capabilities: hours, minutes
Worth: CHF 246,000
Chopard Animal World Peacock Watch
MG: I very very like what Chopard did with this peacock watch. The three-dimensional impact of the feathers is gorgeous, but in addition take a more in-depth take a look at the animal itself. Because the watch is just not very massive, Chopard had solely restricted room and the designers and gem setters did a wonderful job giving this gracious animal a way of character! It’s my runner up on this class.
Chopard Animal World Peacock
ED: I LOVE that this isn’t a quartz watch, which it very properly might have been. However I really feel that Chopard is cautious to concentrate to the standard of the motion in its excessive jewellery watches, and I really like that.
The huge quantity of two,230 stones are set on anodized titanium too, a extremely uncommon materials to make use of for a jewellery watch. That brings quite a lot of additional marks for me as a result of the lightness of the titanium will offset the heavy stones and preserve the watch wearable.
Then there may be the beautiful design of those stones, an enchanting array of “plumage” that captivates with a number of “eyes” that includes blue sapphire “pupils” and rimmed with intense inexperienced “lashes.” It’s merely beautiful.
IS: I’ve bought a peacock at dwelling tapping on the door for his breakfast and dinner every day, so I’ve bought a built-in bias. Nonetheless, I don’t assume it’s essential to be biased to assume the Chopard Animal World Peacock is a sensational jewellery watch. It really works on each stage: impeccable selection of gems, very good gem-setting, improbable design, automatic-winding motion (typically well-liked with ladies), and an especially wearable 26 mm case measurement that’s preferrred for small wrists. The mother-of-pearl dial is the icing on the cake. The Chopard Peacock is my decide to win the 2022 GPHG Jewelry class.
Chopard Animal World Peacock
JM: I’m going out on a limb this yr and choosing for a winner the watch that, for my part, is probably the most eye catching of the group. Based mostly across the idea of a peacock, the Animal World Peacock is fabricated from anodized titanium with 2,230 stones set into the titanium peacock, largely the undulating form of the tail feathers wrapping across the dial. It makes use of a plethora of treasured and semiprecious stones together with Paraíba tourmalines, sapphires, tsavorites, and blue lazulites studded with white, cognac, black and brown diamonds. The coloring across the whole watch is gorgeous and demonstrates cautious and exact management over the gently shifting tones of greens and blues within the tail. That many stones set into titanium is sort of probably probably the most spectacular, even when the model is just not for you.
Out of all the finalist’s timepieces this yr, I feel the Chopard Peacock demonstrates probably the most management over tough gem setting in what seems to be to be a really conventional presentation, even whether it is something however.
GG: My winner this time round is the Chopard Animal World Peacock. It’s visually putting – and coherent – and the sheer effort required to design and execute a feather motif in jewels utilizing 2,230 stones set in anodized titanium actually commanded my consideration. With a number of additional factors added for using a self-winding mechanical motion, this piece tops my record for 2022.
Fast Info Chopard Animal World Peacock Watch
Case: 26 x 15 mm, moral white gold and titanium
Gem-setting: 2,230 treasured and semi-precious stones together with sapphires (4.7 ct), Paraíba tourmalines (1.67 ct), white, cognac, black and brown diamonds (totaling 1.55 ct), tsavorites (1.04 ct), and luzalites (0.71 ct) for a grand whole of 9.69 ct
Motion: undisclosed automated motion with 38-hour energy reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency
Capabilities: hours, minutes
Limitation: one distinctive piece
Worth: CHF 300,000
Jacob & Co Astronomia Metaverso NFT Venus
MG: I like how Jacob & Co continues to play with the idea of the Astronomia. The dome is properly executed and appears so as to add a further layer of depth to this already very sculptural watch. Does Jacob & Co get additional credit score for creating an NFT model of it? I nonetheless choose to have the ability to contact and maintain my watches so I might go for the bodily model of this watch.
Jacob & Co Astronomia Metaverso NFT Venus
JM: This can be a slightly visually fascinating watch that retains me gazing for some time however finally I lose curiosity. The domed cowl that hides many of the mechanics is fairly cool with its filigree-like design set with greater than 300 diamonds and sapphires. However that’s so far as I can go earlier than I’ve to lament the NFT tie-in, to not point out the requirement that the watch be bought with cryptocurrency, which, from a purely enterprise standpoint, looks like a wholly dangerous resolution.
Simply take Bitcoin for instance: within the final week, value fluctuation would have this watch price anyplace from 27.07 to 29.41 Bitcoin, but simply six months in the past it might have price 12.96 Bitcoin because it has dropped over 50 p.c in worth during the last six months and over 68 p.c in worth within the final 12 months. So both this watch goes to lose cash if the value goes down much more, or the particular person shopping for it is going to have dramatically overpaid if the value goes again up. Paying with crypto isn’t paying with forex, it’s like buying and selling shares for bodily items, and I doubt most individuals would say that could be a good technique to run a enterprise. Or maybe Jacob & Co will instantly money out (instantly like inside minutes) to lock of their earnings and showcase how little they consider within the crypto market themselves. Both manner it simply leaves a horrible style in my mouth.
Jacob & Co Astronomia Metaverso NFT Venus
IS: Curiously, Joshua, the Astronomia Metaverso isn’t priced in Bitcoin however in exhausting forex so Jacob isn’t taking any trade price threat. From which I take to imply that the corporate has little confidence within the forex.
ED: The watch itself is fascinating with its base plate of blue aventurine and pink mineral crystal for those who like this type of out-of-this-world design, however I’ve to totally agree with Joshua on the crypto finish of the deal.
IS: The sheer open quantity of the Jacob & Co Astronomia makes it a perfect canvas for arts and crafts, and the glowing diamonds and sapphires of the Metaverso NFT Venus are actually eye catching. However at 44 mm in diameter and 20 mm in top, I feel it’s simply too huge for the overwhelming majority of (seemingly smaller-wristed) individuals and events it’s geared toward.
And whereas some might even see, “The Venus watch represents the primary time in historical past {that a} digitally-led, bodily redeemable NFT is included within the prestigious GPHG awards. The NFT unlocks a slate of digital and real-world advantages, together with the power to redeem the bodily model of the Astronomia Metaverso NFT Venus” as a plus, I can’t assist however really feel it’s a jump-on-the-band-wagon gimmick.
GG: The Jacob & Co Astronomia Metaverso NFT Venus relies on an fascinating premise: the customer acquires an NFT that confers possession of the digital model of the watch, a token to redeem for the bodily model, and entry to a wide range of occasions and different goodies. However the watch itself, I’m afraid, is a visible mess. I’ve picked Jacob watches in previous years as my favorites in a couple of class, however I’ll take a move on this one.
Fast Info Jacob & Co Astronomia Metaverso NFT Venus
Case: 44 x 21 mm, white gold
Gem-setting: 147 white diamonds, 157 fancy vivid yellow diamonds, and 19 pink sapphires (4.63 ct)
Motion: guide winding caliber with one-minute tourbillon, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 48-hour energy reserve
Capabilities: hours, minutes
Limitation: one distinctive piece
Worth: CHF 538,500
Piaget Extravagant Contact Watch
ED: What would this class be with out Piaget? In all probability nonexistent!
That is additionally the second shortlisted watch with a peacock theme on this class, although right here it’s adorned with pure feathers crafted by French maître d’artwork Nelly Saunier, and each feather compositions may be faraway from the watch to be worn as earrings in an unique new system developed by Piaget. I really like the concept! It’s actually a disgrace that the watch is quartz, although.
Piaget Extravagant Contact Watch
MG: The very first thing I questioned upon seeing this Piaget was whether or not the feathers would tickle whereas sporting it. All kidding apart, this Extravagant Contact Watch exhibits as soon as extra why Piaget is a pressure to reckon with in relation to (excessive) jewellery timepieces. It’s authentic but balanced and treasured but playful. Specifically, I like how Piaget matched the opal dial with the gradient of emeralds and sapphires. It makes this watch an important thought and even higher executed.
IS: I do know quartz actions will not be presupposed to depend within the jewellery class, however I can’t assist marking them down. The gems and gem-setting are high notch, and the feathers are a pleasant contact, however I can’t assist however really feel that I see a variation of this model (although often from the Limelight Gala assortment) from Piaget yearly on this class – which exhibits how well-liked it’s, however not for me.
Piaget Extravagant Contact Watch
JM: The Piaget Extravagant Contact is a little bit of a well-recognized face right here on the GPHG as the final mannequin aesthetic has been seen beforehand in each the high-jewelry end and the extra subdued Girls watch class. This model could be very outstanding because it provides a further flourish of vibrant feathers. What’s extra, the feather assemblies are diamond-and-feather earrings that may be eliminated and worn individually from the watch. In that manner the watch is a jewellery set and you’ll completely match the watch to the earrings as a result of they’re actually the haute joaillerie transformers.
The gorgeous opal dial connects the feathers to the watch, and the swish emeralds and sapphires spiraling exterior the case edge fade from saturated to pale, finally turning to diamonds. I feel this watch is definitively extravagant, and I might see it turning heads and gaining quite a lot of favor. Sadly, it is usually powered by a quartz motion, not an issue for some, however I feel the opposite watches in my high three have sufficient to maintain it at bay.
GG: My different runner up is the Piaget. The colours of the opal dial, surrounding stones, and feathered adornments that double as earrings circulation seamlessly into one another and I’m certain that this one is a marvel on the wrist and/or ears. My solely reservation is using feathers on the outside of the watch: if individuals fear about whether or not the actions of unbiased watches may be serviced in future years, how concerning the prospect of getting a number of of the coloured feathers on this watch fall out?
Fast Info Piaget Extravagant Contact Watch
Case: 22.9 x 27.9 x 6.6 mm, white gold
Gem-setting: diamonds, pear-cut emeralds, pear-cut sapphires (14.47 ct)
Motion: quartz
Capabilities: hours, minutes
Limitation: one distinctive piece
Worth: CHF 465,000
TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant Garde
MG: The difficulty with this TAG Heuer is that it feels form of misplaced on this class, however I additionally should not have a transparent thought the place it might be higher suited. It’s not a jewellery watch per se, though it has lab-grown diamonds inserted into the case. I might say that it’s extra a proposition of the long run, a pleasant sprint of innovation, that burst into the GPHG, which can be one of many traditions of the competitors. It’s not with out controversy as some fiercely oppose lab-grown diamonds. I’ve a distinct opinion as I’m solely against them when they’re fraudulently bought as pure diamonds.
TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant Garde
TAG Heuer didn’t do this, so this watch represents an fascinating new course in watchmaking to me. Now all we have to do is use the suitable class for it.
ED: It is extremely unorthodox to place a progressive-technology watch like this on this class. I hope it will get moved to the discretionary Innovation class by the jury as I don’t really feel it actually belongs right here.
IS: Chemical vapor deposition (CVD) is usually used to both make skinny movies of fabric for semiconductors or add a protecting coating to a metallic floor (Urwerk is thought for coating a few of its instances with a black CVD coating). So I tip my hat to TAG Heuer for growing a technique it calls “Diamant d’Avant-Garde” to develop skinny artificial diamonds utilizing CVD. However I’ve 4 points with the TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde as a jewellery watch: at 45 mm, it’s simply too huge for this class; a chronograph and a tourbillon add nothing to the gems and gem-setting; I see completely zero proof of ” . . . distinctive mastery of the artwork of bijou and gem setting” and don’t perceive how this watch even certified on this class, and the design is extra that of a masculine sports activities watch than a surprising female accent for an enormous night time out.
ED: Precisely.
TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant Garde
JM: The Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde is just not a jewellery watch that I feel will win, however there isn’t a doubt in my thoughts that it’s the most progressive jewellery watch I’ve seen in years, fairly probably ever. The case is constituted of anodized aluminum and is about with unimaginable (and theoretically flawless) lab-grown diamonds which are set completely flush into the floor and, much more importantly, following the precise form of the case.
On high of that, they don’t seem to be completely symmetrical, even, or constant in measurement or form. This setting is essentially wild contemplating the fabric and the shapes of the stones. The dial is one thing distinctive as properly, polycrystalline diamond, which is an expanse of diamond crystals that type a single crystalline construction of hyperfaceted uncooked crystals.
The result’s a glowing stunner and highlights one other manner that we will expertise diamonds in a watch. Utilizing lab-grown diamonds additionally sends a message you can have extremely high-quality diamonds with none likelihood of human rights violations, and it doesn’t take a crew of certifiers to make sure the gems are moral. Dumping carbon into a bit of scientific tools and getting out diamonds won’t ever straight exploit anybody, and I might love for all jewels to finally be lab grown so we will depart the land the place it’s and cease digging within the filth for one thing we will make from scratch.
ED: Hear, hear, Joshua! SO RIGHT!
JM: However even with all that, I don’t know if this watch will win over sufficient minds with out extra visually intoxicating implementations of the methods and expertise. It’s a nice watch to showcase what may be accomplished, however it isn’t a spectacular instance of a jewellery timepiece.
GG: The TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde is “avant-garde” in its use of a matrix of lab-grown diamonds on its dial, however I suppose I’m too old-school to heat to the concept of lab-grown gems competing towards the pure ones adorning the opposite watches. And visually this piece can’t stand as much as the others in any case.
Fast Info TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant Garde
Case: 45 x 15.6 mm, anodized aluminum
Gem-setting: lab-grown diamonds (hour markers) and polycrystalline diamond (dial) (11.7 ct)
Motion: automated Heuer 02 Tourbillon Nanograph with one-minute tourbillon; 70-hour energy reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency
Capabilities: hours, minutes, seconds; chronograph
Worth: CHF 350,000
Van Cleef & Arpels Perles de Glace Rose
JM: The Perles de Grace Rose is by far probably the most conventional jewellery piece on this class. It might have been a jewellery home spotlight from any decade within the century. The stone settings are all splendidly executed, the selection of stones is clearly masterful, and the shapes employed are all expertly crafted.
Van Cleef & Arpels Perles de Glace Rose
But this can be a drawback when in this kind of competitors bringing your A-game simply isn’t sufficient. It jogs my memory of the leap from highschool to collegiate sports activities (please indulge the analogy). Everybody within the high school sports activities applications was the “finest” at their college, “finest” of their convention, and even “finest” of their state. But it surely’s clear that only some are nonetheless capable of be thought of the “finest” at this new larger stage as most gamers turn into common, it’s simply that what is taken into account common is so a lot better. I take a look at the entries by Bulgari, Piaget, and Chopard right here, and it’s clear they’re a step above.
GG: Van Cleef & Arpels’ Perles de Glace Rose would possibly stun in particular person, however from the pictures supplied it doesn’t have the “wow” issue for me of a few of the others regardless of the distinguished stones and light-conducting open-setting methods.
Van Cleef & Arpels Perles de Glace Rose
ED: I’m not in love with the way in which that these treasured gems and pearls seem like thrown collectively. Maybe I have to see this watch in particular person to make name – which could be very typically the case with this class – however from the photographs I’m not a fan of this combination of cuts and colours that appears to disregard the delicacy of the case and bracelet’s ultra-petite sizing. After which there’s the quartz motion . . .
IS: The Van Cleef & Arpels Perles de Glace Rose watch is actually an attention-grabbing jewellery watch, however the quartz motion guidelines it out for me (unfairly, I do know). And in a contest by which the preliminary judging by the Academy is essentially based mostly on the photographs provided, these pictures of the Piaget are too flat to allow efficient appreciation of the craft.
MG: Whereas I’m an enormous fan of Van Cleef & Arpels, this Perles de Glace Rose watch is a bit misplaced on me. I discover it too old school in its model, but in addition too pink in its look. The stones are wonderful, as is the setting, however total it doesn’t give me the wow second that I really feel is obligatory for any nice jewellery watch.
Fast Info Van Cleef & Arpels Perles de Glace Rose
Case: 21 x 7 mm, pink gold
Gem-setting: rubies, pink sapphires, and diamonds of varied cuts (26.59 ct)
Motion: quartz
Capabilities: hours, minutes
Limitation: one distinctive piece
Worth: CHF 458,000
Predicted winners
Ian: Chopard Animal World Peacock
Joshua: Chopard Animal World Peacock
Gary: Chopard Animal World Peacock
Martin: Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Haute Joaillerie
Elizabeth: Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Haute Joaillerie
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GaryG’s Early Successful Picks For The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie De Genève (GPHG) 2022
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