The Greek island of Samothrace is a imaginative and prescient in inexperienced. The craggy rocks of Mount Saos, the island’s highest mountain at 5,285 toes (1,611 meters), give approach to light slopes coated in oddly formed airplane bushes, oak woodlands and majestic cedars.
Fed by the clear waters of three rivers, uncommon and endemic vegetation flourish. Greens thrive in fields across the port of Kamariotissa close to the island’s western tip, whereas olive bushes and photo voltaic panels line terraces carved out alongside the southern shoreline.
Positioned within the Aegean Sea close to Greece’s northeastern border with Turkey — the island is a brief ferry journey from Alexandroupoli on the mainland — Samothrace was as soon as recognized throughout the traditional world for its non secular sanctuary. At this time it is a magnet for ecotourists. Listed here are a few of its highlights.
An island of ‘younger toes’
Therma on the north coast, is an efficient base for exploring the island. A lot of the lodging right here is easy, specializing in participating with the setting as a lot as potential. Who wants luxurious when there is a creek taking part in a symphony exterior your window?
Nature is what it is all about, in response to Kaliopi Parselias, proprietor of Parselias Studios for greater than 30 years. “Samothrace is a special island,” she says. “You’ve inexperienced forests, rivers, waterfalls and other people come to stroll up the mountain and a few individuals love the ocean. It’s a virgin island.”
Parselias has run the B&B for greater than 30 years, and initially their friends have been primarily Greek households with just a few Germans. “However now we now have individuals from throughout Europe,” she says. With only one caveat: “Younger individuals, as a result of Samothrace wants younger toes for strolling.”
A lot of them select to remain at Tenting Varades, proper subsequent to the ocean, named after “varades,” a sort of beehive inside hole bushes, explains supervisor Anastasios Vavouras. Bees work as a cooperative, in fact, and the campsite is collectively owned by seven individuals. Their goal, he says, is to supply guests “an alternate means of spending their holidays right here… centered on mountain actions, in a quiet, extra free setting.”
The vast majority of campers are Greeks of their 20s and 30s, like Giannis Tsakiltsidis, a scholar from the mainland on his first go to to the island. “You may spot campers of all ages, right here to expertise a extra undisturbed and extra undiluted view of Greece,” he says.
Tsakiltsidis has come right here to hike. Historical paths crisscross the mountains and the hikes vary from being appropriate for novices by way of to extra critical trekkers.
River hikes and waterfall swimming pools
Throughout northern Samothrace, waterfalls cascade over clean rocks forming vathres, naturally occurring river swimming pools. The three on the Tsivdogiannis River, simply exterior Therma, are the best to succeed in. It is unimaginable to the touch the underside of the primary vathra together with your toes, however Gria Vathra, the second, shouldn’t be so deep. Bare hippies seem like water nymphs, gliding previous clothed swimmers with aplomb. They wade by way of the water, scant belongings bundled on their heads, earlier than clambering throughout and up a rock face to the third pool.
Three extra vathres are positioned on a observe beginning round three and a half miles additional east of Therma alongside the coastal street. The river flowing by way of these is the Fonias, which begins at Mount Saos and flows out into the ocean. Fonias means “killer” in Greek, which positively fits its brutal energy when the water overflows. In dry climate, nonetheless, the trail to the primary vathra is a reasonably straightforward stroll of below one hour. Households, some with toddlers, skirt the riverbed alongside large airplane bushes, gold tinted bracken and aged grey stones.
On the first waterfall, additionally known as Fonias, individuals solar themselves as youngsters paddle within the shallow outer ponds, and swimmers try to remain put below the bracingly robust falls of the primary vathra. Midway up the rock face there is a rope hooked up to a tree. The courageous swing out, Tarzan-style, earlier than torpedoing into the icy waters under.
The second vathra, Gerania — which can also be fed by a waterfall — is an additional 30-minute hike.
The fashionably younger try the ascent clad solely in bikinis and sneakers, however climbing boots are helpful. The primary part entails a steep climb aided by a steel cable, then a difficult zig zag up a dry watercourse resulting in a stage slender observe edging across the mountain, (solely a few of it’s fenced). A quick closing descent reveals your reward: a shimmering iridescent inexperienced physique of water. Blue-bodied, black-winged dragonflies, every marked with a single yellow dot, skitter away throughout the floor, because the people proceed unperturbed with their cleaning rituals.
The trail resulting in Kleidosi, the third waterfall, can also be nicknamed “killer,” and for good motive. It is not really useful.
Mountaineering for execs
The spherical journey from Therma to the height of Fengari, because the Greeks name Mount Saos, is simply over 11 miles however in response to Vavouras, solely the “most daring” goal for the highest. “It is a tough path to climb, however there are structured paths so you are not at any threat of any hazard, slipping or falling,” he says. Like many trails on the island, this one comes with warning indicators alongside the way in which. Bear in mind, you are by yourself if something goes flawed.
Seashores and boating
For the much less energetically inclined there are springs-fed thermal baths in Therma relationship again to Byzantine occasions, plus seashores all over the place. Kipos, close to the jap coast, has stunning bluish colored pebbles whereas Pachia Ammos within the south is the island’s solely sandy seashore. Boat journeys ranging from Kamariotissa or Therma cease at Vatos Seashore (close to Pachia Ammos however in any other case solely accessible through a grueling hike), and take you previous Kremasto Nero. Which means “Hanging Waterfall,” at full circulate the water plummets straight into the ocean with out touching the cliffs, therefore the identify.
Additional around the south coast, stark grey rocks loom menacingly over the waves, coated in what appears to be like like a large work of summary artwork. That is Tis grias ta pania, or “previous girl’s laundry.” Legend has it that someday a fierce wind blew a girl’s washing onto the rocks. Indignant at her loss she rained out curses, turning her garments to stone.
Historical stays
Historical past buffs are additionally catered for on Samothrace. The Arsinoëion, or Sanctuary of the Nice Gods, is the place the statue of Nike, generally known as the “Winged Victory of Samothrace,” was discovered. Sculpted within the second century BCE and now displayed within the Louvre, it is one of the well-known historic artworks. The temple pre-dates the time of classical Historical Greece, and was as soon as the non secular middle of the North Aegean. It has been partially reconstructed and there is a reproduction of the Nike within the small museum.
Chora
Set excessive up on Mount Saos, Chora is the island’s capital. On the citadel constructed within the fifteenth century by Genoese ruler Palamedes Gateluzzi, it is value grabbing a espresso from the cafe at its base and having fun with the view of city. There are fairly streets to wander the place flowers spill from window bins and tree branches create canopies over eating places and cafes.
The small Folklore Museum of Samothrace is laid out like a standard village house, full of non secular icons, images and home items. Look out for a raki nonetheless that appears like an unlimited turkey baster, with a bulb produced from copper and an extended steel nozzle hooked up. In addition to common souvenirs like magnets and windmills it’s also possible to purchase shepherds’ crooks.
Goats and veggies
There are goats all over the place on Samothrace. Within the merely named Goat Store in Chora they’re on T-shirts, baggage and bandannas. Elsewhere they loiter aimlessly on roads, stand on branches chewing mindlessly and foraging among the many walnut bushes. “Our goats are well-known all through Greece,” says Parselias — however not for the explanation you would possibly suppose. “They graze close to the ocean, in order that they’re very tasty.”
The very best goat dishes are discovered inland at family-run eating places in leafy forests or with beautiful sundown views. Naked-chested youths mingle with multi-generational households, as much as their elbows in goat meat washed down with glasses of ouzo or Fonias beer from the island’s microbrewery. Locals have greater than 20 alternative ways to organize goat. Whether or not cooked within the oven with plums, marinated in purple wine or smothered in quince, virtually all the pieces on the menu is bred, grown or made by the individuals serving you.
It is not all meat, although — there’s nice seafood, as you’d anticipate from a Greek island, and vegetarian specialties embrace fasolada tsigirista, a bean stew that is cooked and allowed to take a seat for a day earlier than being fried. A number of Therma eating places have vegan choices together with non-dairy variations of spanakopita, a standard Greek pie normally made with spinach and feta.
Some eating places promote their merchandise on-site, and you should purchase cheese, honey and olive oil direct from farms across the island.
Partying with the hippies
At night time Therma comes alive with a road market. Islanders promote well-crafted jewelry utilizing semi-precious stones, hand-tooled leather-based baggage and extra. Dreadlocked ladies in tiny tops and bearded males in dishevelled shorts drift slowly into city. They dine late, speaking excitedly, earlier than falling silent to hearken to haunting renditions of conventional songs. Earlier than lengthy, everybody joins in. When the moon is full, it is time to occasion — in an environmentally conscious method in fact.
The individuals working in tourism on Samothrace have grown up right here, and none of them take its wild magnificence with no consideration. They work collectively to guard it, as a result of as Parselias says: “Samothrace has superb power. Individuals say it’s calm. Once they come right here they’re drained, have many issues. After one week, they’re new individuals.”
No matter you come for — whether or not it is the strolling, the seashores or the meals — she is aware of you will be again.
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