Rich green emeralds have been coveted since time immemorial—the first known emeralds were mined in Egypt around 1500 BC and were said to be Cleopatra’s favourite. These gems of the beryl mineral family are extremely rare, in fact, far more than white diamonds. Only found in a few places across the world, emeralds are known for their distinct green colour. 

Stones that are not dark green enough are called green beryl, a greenish blue beryl is called an “aquamarine”, and a greenish yellow one is termed “heliodor”. So, when you are buying an emerald you must be absolutely sure that what you are getting is the real thing and not one of its cheaper variations!

We got Elena Basaglia, Gemmologist, Gemfields, to tell us more about these precious stones and how to choose them. Basaglia follows the path of Gemfields’ cut and polished gemstones, from dealers to clients, while also liaising with the key entities of the gemstone trade, such as auction houses, museums, and laboratories.

Know your emerald
Evenness of colour: Look for evenness of colour with good saturation. Tilt the stone in all directions, as sometimes the colour can look vacant along some angles. Also, if possible, view the stone in daylight so you’re not surprised when you take the stone away from the shop light source.”

The cut: The cut of the stone is also important, for this will also make the gemstone come alive. Coloured gemstones often have inclusions (natural features) within the stone and these are part of its DNA.

Rarity: Basically, rarity means value: the clearer the stone along with good colour, the rarer the stone will be. But do not worry about the inclusions as these are what make your emerald unique as you will never get two stones looking the same.

Certification: If it is a significant gemstone you are purchasing, then there must be transparency on treatments of any kind, so it must be accompanied by a certificate from a recognised, independent gemmological laboratory.”

Facts about emeralds
The emerald cut: Many fine emeralds are cut in this iconic style, as it showcases the beauty of the gemstone best.
Cutting centres: The most skilled emerald cutters are to be found in Jaipur, hence this city is considered to be one of the biggest cutting centres for emeralds in the world.
Colour: Gemfields’ Zambian emeralds range from light to dark green and slightly bluish to bluish-green. These stones are perfect for bridal jewellery.
Ethics: Gemfields contributes positively to local economies to build lasting, sustainable livelihoods for the communities around their mines. The company believes that coloured gemstones should be mined and marketed with legitimacy, transparency, and integrity.
Birthstone: Emerald is the birthstone for those born in May.