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Daniel Brush, American jewelry designer and polymath

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Daniel Brush, American jewelry designer and polymath

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Daniel Brush’s extraordinary jewels are an expression of his lifelong seek for a state of grace. In reminiscence of the artist, who handed away on the finish of 2022, we revisit an interview from 2016, after we met him at his New York loft

‘You already know,’ Daniel Brush — artist, jeweller and creator of enchanted, uncategorisable objects — was telling me, ‘I’m now on the stage, I make these items to allow them to have a voice. I make no matter I make as a result of I need to make it. I don’t have any notion past it. In reality, I frankly don’t know what to do with these items. However I need to be proper there on the edge with the chilly wind blowing at me.’

We have been within the loft the place he and his spouse Olivia reside and work, close to the Flatiron Constructing in downtown Manhattan. It was the Fourth of July. Outdoors, the climate was shut, muggy, nonetheless — not a lot as a breath of air blowing, chilly or in any other case. However inside, as at all times with the Brushes, the dialog eddied and swirled continuously, this manner and that, round questions of creativity and worth and the way we have interaction with artistic endeavors.

Brush talked about his pleasure on the prospect of attending a efficiency of conventional Japanese Noh performs at Lincoln Middle that was as a result of happen the next week. Not simply any efficiency — this might be beneath the path of the twenty sixth Grand Grasp of the Kanze College, a direct descendant of Noh’s nice 14th-century exponent and theorist Zeami Motokiyo. A primary for New York and virtually unprecedented outdoors Kyoto.

Bunny Bangle, 1988-92. Hand-carved Bakelite, gold, pink Argyle diamonds and rubies. Photo Geordie Wood

Bunny Bangle, 1988-92. Hand-carved Bakelite, gold, pink Argyle diamonds and rubies. Photograph: Geordie Wooden


I knew from earlier encounters with Brush that Noh was one among his most enduring passions and sources of inspiration, together with gold, metal and, above all, Olivia, to whom he proposed on the day they met, as artwork college students on the Carnegie Institute, in 1967. So I wasn’t shocked that the upcoming present was greater than sufficient to ship him into an ecstasy of anticipation.

‘There’s a selected Noh theatre actor who comes onto the stage and says completely nothing,’ he advised me. ‘They’ve received an accompanying function. They stand subsequent to an accompanying-role column and say nothing. However they’ve yūgen.’ He paused, casting his gaze in the direction of a distant ceiling, fingers steepled.

Brush may be very adept at these dramatic pauses — although whether or not in a approach that’s extra Zeami Motokiyo than Harold Pinter, I couldn’t say for positive.

‘As finest I can perceive it,’ he went on, scrunching up his options, ‘yūgen  interprets into supreme class. And this supreme class will not be the Western definition of class. It’s huge. It’s, like, you already know, supremely  elegant. So. To have yūgen. Wow. I say to myself on a regular basis, what do I’ve to do? How do they do  it? How do I get  it? The place  do I get it? Do I maintain working? Do I maintain considering? Am I heading in the right direction? Am I purported to be doing one thing else, possibly? What if I’ve wasted my time doing all these items? Like, is it a great factor to need  to have yūgen?’ He paused once more, relaxed his scrunched-up options, smiled. ‘I believe so. I do assume so,’ he stated.

I felt as if I’d been given a gift. Yūgen. I regarded it up. In keeping with one supply, yūgen  pertains to understatement, intimation, class, aristocratic grace, composure, equilibrium, serenity and quietism.

‘It’s nearly unattainable to discover a parallel of this yūgen  high quality within the West, since it’s one thing rarely created and appreciated by Westerners. However in Noh the great thing about yūgen  is the core of its beliefs. With out this high quality the Noh ceases to exist.’

Wave, 1993-96. Hammered, chased, pure gold inlet, hand-carved steel. Photo Geordie Wood

Wave, 1993-96. Hammered, chased, pure gold inlet, hand-carved metal. Photograph: Geordie Wooden


This excellent, obscure, all-but-untranslatable time period is definitely a massively useful one in contemplating the physique of labor that Brush has produced over the previous half-century. The early work and drawings, jagged, fraught and intense. Beautiful sculptural items of profound thriller in ivory, metal and gold. Jewelry, witty and eccentric, in treasured gem stones, Bakelite and ultralight NASA steel alloys. All so outwardly completely different that you simply may not imagine they might have sprung from the identical creativeness, and but all imbued, in superb, ineffable abundance, with yūgen.

I requested François Curiel, Christie’s chairman and pre-eminent jewelry professional, and a buddy of the Brushes for greater than 30 years, how he would sum up such an apparently disparate and dislocated oeuvre. ‘Daniel’s inventive genius is contradictory, unorthodox and various,’ he agreed.



Brush typically hangs on to what he has produced for years earlier than parting with it. He sells solely when and to whom he pleases

‘He works with and pairs up essentially the most uncommon supplies, spinning essentially the most extraordinary objects out of them. He has created jewels and artwork objects over a large spectrum of distinctly completely different types and themes. There isn’t any boundary to his inside universe, and he appears to me to be simply flexing completely different inventive muscular tissues throughout completely different inventive durations. He produces artworks with microscopic precision, notably these in granules of gold and intricately carved metal. His technical abilities are awe-inspiring.’

South Light, 2001. Hammered pure gold inlet, hand-carved steel wall light. Photo Geordie Wood

South Gentle, 2001. Hammered pure gold inlet, hand-carved metal wall gentle. Photograph: Geordie Wooden


Curiel is one among a only a few people who find themselves ready to remark on this method with any kind of authority. Brush’s output is tiny, and he typically hangs on to what he has produced for years earlier than parting with it. He doesn’t settle for commissions, seldom displays, doesn’t have a vendor, and sells solely when and to whom he pleases.

‘There’s no different agenda than stand up, work, fall asleep. There’s no agenda to stand up, make a enterprise, fall asleep. There’s no agenda to stand up, get well-known, fall asleep.’ Hardly anybody, briefly, will get to see, not to mention personal, the issues he makes.

Regardless of or maybe due to this snow leopard-like elusiveness, a retrospective of his work at New York’s Museum of Arts and Design in 2012 was on the time the best-attended present within the museum’s historical past.

Daniel Brush at his studio in New York in 2016. Photo Geordie Wood

Daniel Brush at his studio in New York in 2016. Photograph: Geordie Wooden


The richness and eclecticism of Brush’s work is echoed in his dialog. He seldom leaves the studio — although he’s approaching 70, it is a matter of temperament and behavior, not age or infirmity. But he’s something however standoffish, and his urge for food for discuss is insatiable.

Throughout my latest go to, in addition to addressing the topic of yūgen, he spoke, for the very best a part of six hours, about cowboy boots, German bisque dolls, Bugatti engines, endangered species, macaroons, calligraphy, snaphaunces, Hedy Lamarr, Vladimir Horowitz, Trendy Farmer  journal, machine weapons, mimesis, fishmongers, ballet, Scotch whisky, Polaroid movie, ‘traditional seven’ Higher East Aspect flats, punctuation marks and the engineering marvels of Casio G-Shock digital watches.

‘Life’s messy,’ he stated finally. ‘I’m not good with the messiness of it. As a result of the extra I examine, the extra I be taught, the extra I do know, the extra life says, you don’t know something, dude.’

18 ounces of refined pure gold. Photos Geordie Wood

18 ounces of refined pure gold. Photographs: Geordie Wooden


We talked, too, concerning the varied tasks that had been preoccupying him since my earlier go to, three years earlier. There was a ebook of black- and-white pictures of his chokers, entitled Necks. ‘I like the concept which you can possibly take a look at jewels in a brand new approach,’ he stated. ‘Possibly not take a look at them in any respect. Possibly recover from the requirement of all of them being on show like in a list, the place they’re on the market, all of them have readability.

‘So I sort of like the concept it’s a poetry ebook, a dream, and the ebook has extra to do with what I used to be engaged in than the precise work that it pictures. So Olivia and I labored on this for 3 years. Purposefully outdated expired Polaroid movie, purposefully one mannequin that you simply’ll by no means establish. I wished to make the sort of chapbook that you simply used to have the ability to discover at Gotham E book Mart on forty seventh Avenue, which sadly is gone.’

And there have been quite a lot of items of jewelry that drew on traditions of the Indian subcontinent and of Native American tribes of the southwestern United States. At Brush’s request, I held one among these items in my hand for an hour or so earlier than it. It was a Colombian emerald, concerning the dimension and form of a giant Bic lighter, that had previously been a part of a headdress worn by an elephant belonging to the Nizam of Hyderabad. Brush had drilled and seeded the stone with little diamonds, reworking it into one thing that resembled an elongated, unripe strawberry. It made me chortle out loud, as he rhapsodised about its provenance. ‘Emerald. Nizam. Elephant. It’s a huge  story. And it will get larger, proper?’

Poppies, 2010. Hand-carved stainless-steel brooch set with diamonds. Photo Geordie Wood

Poppies, 2010. Hand-carved stainless-steel brooch set with diamonds. Photograph: Geordie Wooden


He additionally confirmed me delicate dreamcatchers of ruby and conch pearl, threaded alongside easy dark-blue strings that turned out, on nearer inspection, to be strands of lapis lazuli. Many Native People, he advised me, make objects meant each to convey on desires and to banish them whereas beneath of the affect of hallucinogens, so as to have interaction instantly with the spirit world.

‘Can a jewel do that?’ he requested. ‘I believe a jewel has to transcend participating the style designer. For me, for me. Can a jewel take your breath away, in and of itself, in order that it doesn’t even need to be worn? Can or not it’s held in your hand so that you dream? Can it develop into an intimate sculpture with no utilitarian perform?’

The questions have been rhetorical. However they invited an extra query in response. All proper, I countered, let’s say a jewel can do or be these issues. How precisely do you measure your individual success because the maker of such talismanic objects? Brush’s reply returned us from the astral aircraft to the studio ground with a bump. ‘I maintain working,’ he stated merely, unhesitatingly. ‘Concepts maintain flowing. It doesn’t cease. Extra confusion. Extra items. Extra work.’



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A few weeks later, I emailed to ask whether or not he’d loved that longed-for Noh efficiency at Lincoln Middle. He wrote again: ‘All Noh theatre stage units from my studying comply with a prescription. From the left, there’s a lengthy entrance walkway, a bridge, the place the refrain and actors enter a small, designated house. When the refrain entered, the spacing between the boys was not excellent and their ft rose at completely different elevations and cadence. Olivia and I abruptly left. I used to be not prepared to jeopardise 50 years of a romantic dream that impressed 50 years of my work. I felt so a lot better after I received again to the studio and had Olivia’s lentil soup. I’m working away like a wild man.’

Regardless of the frustration, I took this to be on steadiness a constructive end result. If you wish to catch a dream, make your individual dreamcatcher. If you wish to see some yūgen, you’d higher make that your self, too. And if you happen to’re Daniel Brush, you may.

This text was initially printed within the November-December 2016 version of  Christie’s Journal. www.danielbrush.com

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