Stéphane Rolland confirmed a robust, sculptural assortment for spring, which was rooted in Brazil.
He lengthy had cherished Marcel Camus’ movie “Black Orpheus,” from 1959, which riffs on the Greek legend of Orpheus and Eurydice.
“I began to construct the story in three components. The primary is Rio within the ’70s — structure, the modernity of the construction,” mentioned Rolland, explaining the second part refers to Brazil’s Amazonian roots, and the Indigenous folks from the rainforest. “There are sculptures on the clothes in lacquered kind, in stable kind, and there are numerous new methods. Every part is 3D, and it’s very robust.”
The third half harkens again to extra of Brazil’s historical past — the conquistadors, and their gold and different treasures. The sumptuousness of the church in Bahia impressed Rolland, as nicely.
“I needed the ultimate a part of the present to be actually wealthy, however [also] trendy and attractive,” he continued.
Silhouettes had been usually sculptural. The opening look was an uneven, lengthy gown, in white iridescent voile, with an egg-shaped sculpture manufactured from white jersey perched atop the left shoulder.
The mini “sambadrome” gown was made in black gazar, which flared in waves across the waist and chest, swelled up over a shoulder and across the again, flowerlike in its motion.
“I can sculpt the gazar like a stone,” Rolland mentioned.
The lengthy, formfitting espresso brown gown in jersey and gazar got here with graphic embroidery created out of lacquer and white jersey.
The final look, a voluminous wedding ceremony gown of golden cloqué lamé, was embellished on the entrance, backside and hood with golden arched sculptures. In making the garment, Rolland had in thoughts a gilded Madonna sculpture, known as Our Woman of Aparecida.
He created giant jewellery items, corresponding to bracelets and earrings, in steel, sculpted wooden and gems — together with emeralds, jade and malachite — that had been worn with many seems to be.
“Each single element may be very treasured,” Rolland mentioned.
