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In 2020, the Paris-based jeweler Anaïs Rheiner made a gold necklace with a citrine, a gemstone that some imagine bolsters creativity, for her pal Thibaud Monge Etcheberry. She had no thought on the time that the present would cause them to collaborate on a jewellery line for males.
Referred to as Healers Fantastic Jewellery, the model highlights stones — and the therapeutic powers that some gems are stated to have — as a method “to do one thing slightly extra fashionable” and totally different with jewellery for males, Ms. Rheiner, 41, stated throughout a video interview from the area the place she makes her personal line, Anaïs Rheiner Joaillerie, and now Healers.
Launched on Instagram in February 2021, Healers was added to the boys’s providing on mrporter.com inside six months, a lift that led to complete gross sales of 160,000 euros ($165,640) between Jan. 1 and July 31, greater than double the €70,000 that the model had bought in 2021.
Ms. Rheiner funds Healers from her personal enterprise, with Mr. Etcheberry taking an undisclosed fee on gross sales for coping with the industrial facet of Healers, together with establishing and managing the retail relationships.
The model additionally debuted within the males’s choices on matchesfashion.com in September. “Numerous jewellery manufacturers we work with in the mean time are very polished and this gives one thing slightly bit extra uncooked, natural trying,” stated Ben Carr, a senior purchaser at MatchesFashion.
Costs vary from €580 to €9,660 for rings, bracelets, earrings and necklaces. For instance, the Half Chakra Half Chain necklace, made with 18-karat recycled gold in addition to carnelians, amethysts and different stones, is listed on MatchesFashion at $2,244.
Ms. Rheiner stated she had been within the therapeutic powers of stones since childhood. “My mum’s all the time introduced me up in a therapeutic world,” she stated. “She was all the time into yoga and reiki and it was her method of teaching us.”Consequently, she stated, “I’ve all the time felt that options could possibly be present in other ways of therapeutic. I’ve all the time believed in it.”
Alicja Wooles, managing director of Holts Gems, within the Hatton Backyard district of London, offers in treasured and semiprecious gems and has no reference to Healers as a enterprise. She stated its strategy to gems and their particular properties represents a shift. By utilizing treasured metallic with therapeutic stones, she stated, “they’re taking it from a common gem fanatic place into the high-end market.” And, she stated, “there’s a clear design behind them.”
The duo determined to focus their jewellery on males as “the lady’s market is big and there’s an excessive amount of competitors,” Mr. Etcheberry, 38, stated in a video interview. “You want doubtlessly to have far more price range than we had.”
Mr. Etcheberry, who’s a former males’s put on designer, stated he had discovered that “as a person it was actually laborious” for him to purchase jewellery for himself. “Normally it’s not made or created for males,” he stated. “It’s made for ladies after which tailored to a male buyer. And I wished to do one thing for the male buyer that was made for them.”
Throughout his interview, Mr. Etcheberry wore the citrine pendant with an emerald — which ought to “stabilize feelings,” he wrote in a WhatsApp message — that Ms. Rheiner had made for him, a double preliminary necklace and a rose gold Van Cleef & Arpels wedding ceremony band.
Danielle Thom, a curator on the Design Museum in London, who additionally has no connection to the model, stated Healers had been a part of “a rising acceptance of the concept males can adorn themselves with shade, with ornament and with decoration, and that’s it’s not essentially reflective of their sexual orientation or their gender id.”
Born in Lausanne, Switzerland, Ms. Rheiner moved along with her household to Harare, Zimbabwe, in 1983 for her geologist father’s mining job. She knew she wished to work in jewellery so she apprenticed with a neighborhood goldsmith from 2000 to 2004 and graduated in 2006 with a diploma in jewellery design and manufacture from Durban College of Know-how in South Africa.
The subsequent yr she moved to Paris and established her model. She met Mr. Etcheberry in 2009 when he got here to a celebration at her boutique as a visitor of a mutual pal.
Born in Bayonne, France, Mr. Etcheberry studied vogue design in Paris for 2 years earlier than opening his personal males’s put on label in 2010. However by June 2011, he “ran out of cash so I needed to cease,” he stated. He spent a number of years styling TV packages, together with the French model of “Dancing With the Stars,” and pattern forecasting earlier than turning to vogue shopping for in 2016, first at Browns in London after which at Galeries Lafayette in Paris. He now could be merchandising supervisor for males’s and girls’s footwear for the high-end division retailer La Samaritaine in Paris and the T Galleria by DFS shops throughout the DFS (Responsibility Free Consumers) Group.
Mr. Etcheberry stated his restricted background in jewellery allowed him to carry an unconventional perspective to the road. For instance, he positioned six oval citrines sideways quite than lengthwise on a bracelet ($6,292) as a result of, he stated, “it regarded higher for males.”
The companions each design items and have divided obligations for the model. Ms. Rheiner normally sources gems from her father, who has a workshop in Harare, the place a lot of the stones are also minimize. She additionally makes the metallic shapes, however the gem setting is completed by native artisans. Mr. Etcheberry runs the enterprise facet in addition to the model’s web site and Instagram account.
Aquamarine is the model’s finest promoting stone, in keeping with Mr. Etcheberry. It’s stated to assist the wearer “get out of difficult conditions,” he stated, and the blue stone additionally “catches the attention however it’s additionally adequately subtle to not be too apparent.”
As to the long run, the duo are planning new merchandise like anklets, as “we’re getting demand from males,” Ms. Rheiner stated, and wedding ceremony rings, as “males may put on one thing a bit extra enjoyable.”
Mr. Etcheberry additionally has been looking for new retail companions in New York, Los Angeles, Hong Kong and Seoul.
His success would imply extra workers, too, as “there’s X quantity of stones I can get hold of,” Ms. Rheiner stated, “X quantity of hours that I’ve, and have 10 fingers. That’s it.”
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