How does a diamond communicate to you? Ask Christian Hemmerle, the fourth-generation jeweler who searches the world for distinctive vintage diamonds, stones with character and emotion that, he says, communicate to him.
“Previous gems have a narrative to inform,” says Hemmerle. “They communicate to you thru their vitality; we really feel their vitality.”
Hemmerle, identified internationally for its daring, avant garde creations, favors classic diamonds for his or her distinctly modern jewellery designs.
A century in the past, these diamonds had been minimize by grasp artisans whose goal was to unleash a tough stone’s character and sweetness, fairly than to simply maximize its carat weight, explains Yasmine Hemmerle, Christian’s spouse. The outcomes had been diamonds that radiated a softer glow, in comparison with right this moment’s typically precision-cut fashionable diamonds.
Diamonds and gem stones are the place to begin of Hemmerle’s one-of-a-kind jewellery creations.
Hemmerle combines the vintage diamonds, that are most frequently left untouched and imperfect, with unconventional supplies, reminiscent of iron, bronze and aluminum, in one-of-a-kind designs. That eye-catching juxtaposition of softly radiant previous diamonds and hanging industrial iron or modern copper has develop into the home’s defining signature.
A Hemmerle design is immediately recognizable for its minimalist, sculptural type, revolutionary supplies, and distinctive craftsmanship. There’s typically a way of playfulness within the items too, just like the floral designs debuted of their current Infused Jewels assortment, which options metallic settings that had been tinted to boost the colour of the gem stones. In addition they usually use historical Egyptian artifacts and 18th century cameos that imbue layers of tradition, craft and storytelling in a single jewel.
“The perfection is within the imperfection,” says Yasmin about Hemmerle’s diamonds of selection.
When Yasmin joined the household enterprise, she shortly discovered find out how to uncover the diamonds that talk to you. “I solely knew about fashionable diamonds and the 4 C’s,” she says. “The extra I noticed these previous stones, the extra I acknowledged that they’ve a soul, one thing distinctive inside them.”
As soon as the Hemmerles discover that particular diamond, it takes endurance to understand the most effective residence for it, says Christian. That was the case with a 12-carat cushion-shaped diamond that was as soon as set in a European crown. He tucked that stone away for 16 years, till lately deciding upon the proper setting for it. It was a stunning, crooked diamond, and he set in an iron ring with the diamond resting between two fingers. “It was a cool design; the crooked stone match completely between the fingers. It offered instantly.”
Hemmerle’s audacious fashion began with Christian’s father Stefan, who experimented with new concepts and supplies.
In the present day, Hemmerle’s modernist iron and diamond rings are coveted by worldwide collectors who favor a extra discreet but distinctive aesthetic. That fashion originated within the Nineteen Nineties when Stefan Hemmerle set a diamond in an iron ring for a shopper who favored early 19th century Berlin iron jewellery over platinum and diamonds. It was the start of a brand new period.
“Stefan was forward of his time,” says Yasmin. “He was all the time minimalistic in what he did, and he was by no means scared about what folks would possibly say.”
Based in 1893 by Stefan’s grandfather, the household has maintained that non-public contact. Each piece is designed by the household and made by grasp craftsmen in its workshop within the heart of Munich.
That first iron ring gave the Hemmerles the liberty – and braveness to experiment with valuable gem stones paired with revolutionary supplies, reminiscent of brass, aluminum and even pebbles. “We don’t give ourselves boundaries,” explains Christian. “It’s not about what’s valuable or not, we simply look what’s the greatest home for the diamond.”
The Hemmerles are always exploring totally different methods and supplies to create new items that work with the way in which that girls reside right this moment. “We reside very quick lives, and folks wish to put on and luxuriate in their jewellery each day,” says Yasmin. To that finish, the Hemmerles design rings with low-set stones in minimalist settings and diamonds are set upside-down in reverse pave spikes.
“The jewellery ought to by no means overpower a girl,” says Yasmin. After all, it ought to communicate to her.
