As the rest of the world counts to seven for a stroke of luck, Gabrielle Chanel famously finds herself most heavily favoured with just two numbers less. After all, Chanel levied a sui generis scent on to the number five; found fortune by presenting her collections “on the fifth of May, the fifth month of the year”; and was born with Leo — the fifth sign of the zodiac — lighting up the night sky. Chanel’s Eternal Nº5 fine jewellery collection takes the form of the digit quite literally, with brilliant-cut diamonds set in white- and beige-gold shining a light on to the house’s — and now, possibly, your — luckiest number.

Great Escapes

These gems and jewels are whispering “Let’s get out of here” into your ear — and what choice do you have but to listen?

Anywhere But Here

Ailleurs (elsewhere) is where artistic director Claire Choisne — as well as the rest of us home- and pandemic- bound misérables — chooses to turn her gaze (and designs) towards for Boucheron’s new high-jewellery collection. Although it’s not physical places per se, but rather the notion of an untouched, unspoiled nature where borders don’t exist. One of five chapters, the Femme Sable personifies a desert-like wilderness in which sculptural curves of natural rattan follow the same winding paths as an arranged deluge of diamonds.

Michele Mosaics

Ever the Renaissance man, Alessandro Michele travels through time and space to places far, wide, real and, at times, not quite so. The third chapter of Gucci’s Hortus Deliciarum high-jewellery imaginarium is staged in five acts: the first takes place amid bygone images of Ancient Rome, where now-ruined landmark edifices — such as the Colosseum or, as shown on the pictured necklace, the Temple of Hercules — stand proud in their former glory on vintage micro-mosaic pendants made between 1850 and 1870.

New Wave

South Korean actress Song Hye-kyo attended Chaumet’s Piscine Molitor launch event celebrating the Ondes et Merveilles (Waves and Wonders) high-jewellery collection with curving tendrils framing her face and the Gulfstream earrings also, technically, framing her face. Part of the same parure, the necklace dips on to Song’s decolleté so you can really admire the crests and troughs that waver from mint-green Colombian emeralds to Madagascar sapphire blues to a shade of gemstone careening between the two.

Paradise Found

They might hop, might skip, might burrow and, in the case of the sleeping flamingo, might stand on one bent leg. Mikimoto’s Wild and Wonderful high-jewellery collection is an ode to the wildlife that lives and moves through all five continents, from the grassy savannahs of Africa — as depicted by the pictured zebra-striped ring (“striped” with alexandrite, spinel and diamonds) — to the rugged plains of Australia, the rainforests of America, the lush greenery of Eurasia and the glacial topography of Antarctica.

Tut-Tut

A peculiar fixation on ancient Egypt — with its King Tut, Great Sphinx and Rami Malek as Prince Ahkmenrah in Night at the Museum — is something of a rite of passage. Fascinated, Valérie Messika dreamed up the Beyond the Light high-jewellery collection with Akh-Ba-Ka spotlit at its heart — a masterpiece of a necklace with a winged scarab perched atop a resplendent, 33-carat diamond. And, of course, it’s magnificent: it’s named for ancient Egypt’s idea of the very components that make up a soul.

In A Candy Store

Fine, fine jewellery can also be fun, fun jewellery. So, go on. Retrieve your inner child for an accessorising adventure that’s not shy on the dopamine brights and the grin-inducing designs.

Florals for Summer

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Hand-chiselled from ocean-blue turquoise, this made-to-order ring from Sophie Joanne’s Bloemenkunst collection has hefty artistic citations. It was, after all, the works of Andy Warhol and Hilma af Klint (a female Swedish abstract artist who predates Kandinsky and Mondrian) that inspired the fanned out, forget-me-not shape of this floral design.

Squiggly Wiggly

Bea Bongiasca’s delicious creations, which count cool girls Dua Lipa and Bella Hadid as super-fans, make a serious case for fine jewellery that doesn’t take itself too seriously. Here, there’s always room for a scintilla of bright, bold enamel; always room for a free-handed squiggle; always room for marquise-cut rock crystals and diamonds and grass-green tourmalines and plucked-from-the-ocean aquamarines. Who says fun can’t also mean fine, precious stones? Not Bea Bongiasca.

Finger Hearts

EÉRA’s signature snap hook, which co-founders Chiara Capitani and Romy Blanga happened across in a Tokyo market, doesn’t make a cameo appearance in these funky, chunky rings, but the Italian brand’s familiar PVD coating — it creates an almost cyborg-chrome finish — does. Who cares about wearing your heart on your sleeve when you can wear a white-diamond-encrusted one on all 10 fingers?

So Slinky!

Necessity may be the mother of invention, but for Richard James, inventor of the Slinky, it wasn’t so much necessity as serendipity (he was trying to engineer a tension spring for battleship engine instruments). Boochier’s Slinkees, no relation, coil into a familiar spring-like spiral that, unfortunately, doesn’t teeter down staircases. But they’re fun and spotted with diamonds — so, just as joyful.

Power of Colour

Colours! All of them! Every spoke of the colour wheel; every rung on the rainbow represented! Whether it’s wrist cuffs waggling in line to a wavy ric-rac trim or studding protruding from a string of pearls or, even, a stack of ombré rings meant to be worn all together, Fry Powers has no interest in anything that might be described as “muted” or, worse, “boring”.

Header and featured images courtesy of Messika’s Beyond The Light collection

This story first appeared on PrestigeOnline Hong Kong.